‘Every Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.
When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.
An Shocking Recognition
The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
The Signature Offering: Tantuni
In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.
Rising Above the Titans
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
The Philosophy of Warmth
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Dedication
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
A Recognition for the Community
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.